Syllabus: GS– I & V: Indian Culture & Handloom Sector

Why in the News?

The “Padma Doree” textile initiative has been launched to promote cross-cultural collaboration in India’s handloom sector, blending traditions from Northeast India and Madhya Pradesh.

About the Initiative

• Launched by North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation
• Operates under:
  • Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region

Key Features

• Fusion of:
  • Eri Silk (Ahimsa silk) from Northeast India
  • Chanderi fabric from Madhya Pradesh
• Promotes:
  • Sustainable and ethical textile production
  • Innovation in traditional crafts
• Includes:
  • Fashion showcase
  • Artisan interaction and live demonstrations
  • Exhibition on “fibre to fabric” journey

What is Special about Eri Silk?

• Eri silk comes from two species of silkworms, Samia ricini and Philosamia ricini.
• It is durable, cotton-like, and offers excellent thermal properties, making it warm in winter and cool in summer.
• The name “eri” comes from the Assamese word “era,” meaning “castor,” because these silkworms feed on the leaves of the local, indigenous castor oil plant. 
  • Castor oil plant is drought resistant plant that requires vastly less water than the mulberry tree, grown to feed mulberry silk worms.
• Eri Silk is locally known as Ryndia in Meghalaya, which in Khasi language refers to the Ryndia (castor) plant.
• The ancient tradition and the existence of Eri Silk date as early as 2500 BCE.
• Eri Silk is renowned as the world’s only vegan silk, where, unlike other silks, the moth inside the cocoon is not killed. 
• Instead, the moth naturally exits the cocoon, leaving it behind for use. 
• In 2024, North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC), under the Ministry of DoNER, obtained the Oeko-Tex certification for its Eri Silk from Germany.
• The production of India’s Eri silk takes place almost entirely in village-based setups in the Northeast: 
  • Assam accounts for 38.3% of India’s Eri silk production, Meghalaya 22.6%, Manipur 29.8 % and Nagaland 6.8 %.

What is Chanderi Fabric?

• Traditional handloom textile originated from the small town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh
• It is made primarily using silk, cotton, or a blend of both, often adorned with zari (metallic threads).
• The roots of Chanderi fabric date back to the Vedic period, with its weaving tradition flourishing during the reign of the Scindia rulers in the 18th century.
• Koshti weavers from Jhansi settled in Chanderi village in the 13th century. 
• Chanderi fabric evolved when weavers discovered Japanese silk in the 1930s, replacing cotton warps with silk.
• Known for:
  • Lightweight texture
  • Fine motifs and elegance
• Part of India’s rich handloom heritage

Objectives of Padma Doree

• Promote Ek Bharat Shreshtha Bharat vision (cultural unity)
• Create a sustainable textile ecosystem
• Provide market access to artisans
• Position Indian handlooms in global luxury markets

Significance

• Encourages inter-state cultural integration
• Strengthens handloom sector and rural economy
• Preserves indigenous knowledge systems
• Promotes sustainable fashion globally

Important Concepts Explained

• Ahimsa Silk: Silk produced without killing silkworms
• Handloom: Fabric woven manually without power machines
• Sustainable Fashion: Eco-friendly textile production
• Cultural Integration: Exchange of traditions across regions
• Value Addition: Enhancing product appeal and market value

Exam Hook

Prelims Question:
Eri silk, often called “Ahimsa silk”, is known for:
(a) Being produced from synthetic fibres
(b) Being obtained without killing silkworms
(c) Being used only in industrial textiles
(d) Being imported from Europe

One-line Wrap

Padma Doree beautifully blends tradition and innovation, showcasing India’s handloom heritage on a global stage.